Dining out with Moira Hodgson
A Fresh Face in Tribeca Lives Up to Its Name "Is this place done?" One of my friends stared at the two blurry color blow-ups of part of a seascape that were pinned to the wall with thumbtacks. We had...
View ArticleDining out with Moira Hodgson
Meal of a Lifetime May Be Cure for Orange-Alert Blues Fling your paper down in disgust: The world is falling apart and here I am, eating a six-course black truffle dinner at Alain Ducasse! I was...
View ArticleEight Day Week
Wednesday 23rd Will the almost-Ivy Lolitas of Barnard College meet their match in the glossy-lipped gamines of Glamour magazine? Will young women who stay up late scrutinizing Thomas Hardy's use of...
View ArticleDining out with Moria Hodgson
Putting the High In Low, Ducasse Mixes It UpThe smartly dressed man and woman at the next table had just finished a business lunch at Mix when their waitress appeared with a giant bottle of Nutella,...
View ArticleOff the Record
In February, New York Times food critic Frank Bruni reviewed Alain Ducasse at the Essex House. Mr. Ducasse's restaurant, the city's most expensive when it opened in 2000, had overcome initial carping...
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Kimchi Gets a Chelsea Makeover: Nouveau Korean Place Plays Cool
“Refined” is not an adjective normally associated with Korean food. The hallmarks of the cuisine are kimchi, chilies and garlic. Meat is barbecued over smoking tabletop grills, and bowls of rice act as...
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Seasoned Chef Swaps Boulud For Reliable, Rustic Italian
When I called to make a reservation, I was brought up short for a second when a male voice answered “A Voce. Dante speaking.” Dante Camara (not Alighieri) is the maître d’ at A Voce (which means “word...
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Communing With Cooks Who Braise, Brand and Shill
To Michael Ruhlman, dining at a four-star restaurant is akin to a religious experience. “The meaning of life could be found in an onion,” he writes in his new book, The Reach of a Chef, “and the battle...
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Morning Memo: Why Mary Kate Olsen Was Dragged Into Ledger Story; The Latest...
When Heath Ledger's masseuse found the actor unconscious Tuesday, she called Mary-Kate Olsen for advice before dialing 911. The NYPD spokesman said, "I'm not going to speculate on why 911 was not...
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Ducasse Redux: The Master Regroups at the St. Regis, No Tux Required
A waiter placed a shallow white bowl before me. On the bottom, making the corners of a square, lay four pastel-colored florets: yellow, ivory, pink and green. He poured in cauliflower soup and set down...
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